Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Hair today, gone tomorrow

I got another haircut. It's awful. See for yourself. I call this photo, "Peach and Becky pretend to be serious models who actually like their new looks."

Ok, so it's not the worst thing to happen to me since I cut my eyelashes with scissors when I was 8, but here are some reactions:
- "Did you cut it yourself!?"
- * silence * (the classic rejection from a Thai)
- "You are a cutie!" (from a 16 year old boy- huh?)
- "How much did you pay for that?!"
- "Dedt pom" (aka 'haircut' - stating the obvious)
- A shy smile from one of my students who used to call me 'beautiful' everyday

Sunday, January 27, 2008

Rockin' and Rollin'


On Friday evening, the teachers had their New Year party. Don't ask me why the party was 25 days after the New Year... some things in Thailand simply can't be explained. Perhaps the planning committee was shooting for the mid-point between the official New Year and the Chinese New Year (by the way, the Thai New Year is in April). All of the teachers ate family-style in the assembly hall while prizes were raffled off and folks sang karaoke. Yes, I did sing 'I Will Survive.' I pretty much brought the house down (just kidding, but I definitely caught some teachers off guard). Some of the teachers got pretty tipsy, which was hilarious. One of the PE teachers took off his shirt at one point! I won a towel, which will come in handy when my tiny apartment turns into a super deluxe hotel room for my parents' visit. No frayed towels for the parents at this luxurious 5-star establishment. I'll be giving the Oriental (one of the world's best hotels in Bangkok) a run for its money. Riiiight...

On Saturday I gave a presentation on the US education system to a class of PhD students at Silpakorn University. I had to speak very slowly, which is quite a challenge for me at times. I went from having a rocky start to feeling like a rock star by the end of the presentation. At the end of my presentation I received a really nice piece of painted china and a pretty shawl. After lunch, I walked around the beautiful campus and worked on my interim reports for the US Fulbright office and the Thai Fulbright office.

Sunday's big even was a train ride from Nakhon Pathom to Nam Tok on the infamous Death Railway with Ajahn Penny (who helps me read Thai), and Bella and Liza (the Philippina English teachers). Though I had seen some of the sights in Kanchanaburi before, it was fun visiting them again and seeing them from the train. We went to the bridge over the River Kwai, the cemetery for WWII POWs who worked on the Thai-Burmese railroad, and the Sai Yok Waterfall. I took about a trillion pictures as we rolled along the tracks. By the end of the day trip, dirt had flown in the open windows and completely covered me. I'm still picking grit out of my eyes, ears, and nose!

Sunday, January 20, 2008

Isaan Escape


This weekend I ran away from home. I packed a bag and headed to the Northern/Northeastern bus terminal in Bangkok with only a faint idea of where I would end up and a backpack on my shoulders. I bought an overnight ticket and arrived in Ubon Ratchathani the next morning, where I met up with fellow Fulbrighter Katie. She showed me around the rural province she has called home for the past three months. We spent the first day on a farm, eating ripe starfruit straight from the tree and snacking on sticky rice from a handwoven basket. Just before lunch, we were joined by an elderly couple, who had previously done mission work in Thailand for the Mormon Church. While the husband fished (to the point of wastefulness!), the wife told me her life story... everything from her daughter's hysterectomy to the floor plan of her timeshare in Cancun to her thoughts on the fate of Russian orphans.

On Sunday, Jessica (a Fulbrighter teaching in nearby Sisaket) joined us for the day. We went fabric shopping for silk and watched women weave beautiful cotton at the tedious rate of a meter a day. We went to the main attraction of Ubon- a large golden candle in the middle of a park honoring the King. Then we went to a wat tucked away in a peaceful forest. After dinner together, we had to part ways at the sound of duty calling; we each had morning classes in our respective provinces. Though the weekend was too short, I had a marvelous time seeing two friends and another (wonderfully tranquil) side of Thailand.

Sunday, January 13, 2008

More Scary Stuff


I hate to be Debbie Downer, but since my visit to Pattaya, a serious of odd events have taken place.
The Serious Stuff:
- Four students at Pattarayan crammed on one motor scooter and had an accident. One M2/5 (eighth grade) student died, two are still in the hospital, and one is recovering at home.
- I've been hearing a bunch of sad news from home: a Rice student/Hanszenite went missing; another Rice student is in a coma; a Baylor med student died; bad car accidents in North Idaho (plus a man severing and microwaving his hand?!).
The Not-So-Serious Stuff:
- Over the weekend I went to Suphanburi with my friend Peach and her father Pirapong. We stayed at Peach's maternal grandmother's house, where Peach's family lived for about 20 years before they moved to their home in Nakhon Chaisi two years ago. It's quite common for extended family to live together, but I was surprised at how the four of them fit in one tiny room. Here's the strange part- we went to hell. Seriously (sorry, Mom, I know you hate that word), we went to a temple complex that had a beautiful temple, a HUGE Buddha, replicas of India temples, a yard filled with over a hundred Buddha statues, and HELL. If you don't believe me, see the picture above of just one of the gory scenes. It was totally gruesome, vulgar, and barbaric as demons mutilated people, vultures riped out their guts, and diseases infected their bodies. Ick.
- The Suphanburi market was filled with fish. All sorts of fish were flopping around in the streets waiting to be chosen, hacked up, and eaten for dinner. Other delicacies were available, too, like various insects and even rodent rotisserie.

Despite all the absurdity of the past week or so, life is good. I'm enjoying myself despite the occasional bout of homesickness and can't believe that I'll be home in only two months!

Tuesday, January 8, 2008

XXIII



Older? Yes. Wiser? Maybe. Feeling like a 23-year old? Absolutely not.

I had a very nice birthday yesterday (though I technically have 30 minutes left of my birthday on the West Coast). I received some very nice emails, facebook messages, mail, and even a couple phone calls. The other English teachers were very kind and showered me with presents and food. I definitely need to go to aerobics, definitely. One of the Philippina teachers (Liza) had her birthday on the 7th, so we celebrated together (with several other teachers) at a nice dinner, complete with a cake! We look like we're dressed for a funeral or some sort of posh black-and-white party because all of Thailand is mourning the death of the King's 84-year old sister. All government employees are wearing black and white for the 15 days following her death on January 2. So, I'm alternating my two black outfits every other day for two weeks straight. Thank goodness What Not to Wear only films in the US, or I'd be getting a call from Stacy and Clinton.

Sunday, January 6, 2008

Thailand's Ugly Side


This past weekend I caught glimpse of the ugly side of Thailand... and I'm not just talking about the woman's backside in the picture above. On Saturday morning I hopped on a bus headed for Pattaya, a tourist hot spot known for its balance of family-friendly beach activities and the super-scandalous sex trade. I wasn't expecting to run into much of the indecent proposals... thinking that sort of underground operation happened in a dark alley setting. How wrong I was! As soon as the sun went down, girls (young, YOUNG girls) and men moonlighting as members of the opposite sex took their posts on the street, beckoning passers-by into their skeevy establishments. I scampered away from the scamps and tramps as fast as I could, but was no less scarred. I hid in my hotel room, ready to take the first bus back in the morning. At 2am I awoke to a man banging at my door saying something in Thai about the police and my 'friend' and something else I couldn't understand. Since I stupidly came to Pattaya alone, I informed him that I didn't have any friends, I didn't know what he's talking about, and I just wanted to go back to sleep. SCARY! Thankfully, I made it back to my little town in one piece and will never return to Pattaya again. Sheesh.

Thursday, January 3, 2008

...In with the new!

On Friday, December 28, I headed to Bangkok's northern bus terminal Mochit. I had been to the eastern bus terminal Ekkamai on my way to Koh Samet and the southern bus terminal Sai Dtai Mai (every time I go into Bangkok I pass this station), but Mochit was like a different world, especially for the holidays. I had to hold my ground and fight to stand upright in the sea of people waiting for their buses. When my bus finally pulled away from the mobs of people and clouds of diesel fumes, we were two hours late in heading to Chiang Mai. When I woke up in the morning, I was surrounded by the beautiful mountains of the north and forgot all about the congestion of Bangkok. Finally, a breath of fresh air!

In Chiang Mai, I met up with fellow Fulbright ETAs Angie and Eve, who both teach in Chiang Mai. We spent the first day with Angie's school director- a stern-looking Thai man with the voice of James Earl Jones and the heart of a teddy bear. He took us to a hill tribe village in the mountains. We met some cute Hmong children who followed us around from a safe distance. Then we came back to Chiang Mai for a New Year's party and gift exchange.

The next day, Angie and I went to the Chiang Mai Zoo. Though the zoo is best explored by car or trolley, we decided to hoof it up the hill to see animals that were close enough to touch. Actually, Angie and I contemplated stepping over the two small logs that separated us from the lions (a very minimal barrier) so that we could take home a cute little lion club sleeping nearby. My favorite animal was the orangutan. In the evening, we went to the Sunday walking street at Tha Pae Gate- basically a bustling market in the middle of a closed-off street.

On New Year's Eve, Eve and I went to the Royal Flora Project- an elaborate landscaping project showcasing flowers from around the world. Then we stopped by Night Safari, a controversial, big-budget attraction. In the evening, we met up with Angie and ate dinner at the riverside. We headed into town (through the Night Bazaar) to watch the fireworks at Tha Pae gate. We were surrounded by people, fireworks (some too close for comfort), and kamlois (the paper lanterns). There wasn't a main countdown, but about five different groups of people counted down depending on what their watch said. Then we took a tuk-tuk back to Angie's house at her school... the driver was crazy and drove like we was on a suicide mission, so my life flashed before my eyes in the wee hours of 2008.

On New Year's Day, Eve and I went to Doi Suthep, a majestic mountain overlooking Chiang Mai. We visited a temple at the top (packed with people making good in the New Year) and the Phuping Palace. The royal residence was fairly modern, which was weird to see something so recent (built in the last 50 years) and still related to a revered monarchy. On the way down the mountain, we stopped at Huey Kaew waterfall. Chiang Mai is famous for its natural beauty- mountains, waterfalls, gardens, etc.

Finally, I took an overnight bus home and taught just an hour after I arrived in Nakhon Chaisi. That evening I met up with fellow Fulbrighter Ross, who was vacationing in Bangkok with his family for the holidays before returning to his base in Chiang Rai. We hit up the dessert buffet at the Peninsula (again) and danced the night away for a bit at RCA. So much fun, so little sleep!

Tuesday, January 1, 2008

Out with the old...


สวัสดีปีใหม
Sawatdee Bee Mai!
Happy New Year!

I went to Chiang Mai for the New Year (2008- to Thais, it's 2551). The picture shows many 'kamloi' or paper lanterns being sent into the sky on New Year's Eve. Letting go of the lantern symbolizes letting go of bad things or feelings from the past. I enjoyed watching my worries and troubles sail away into the night sky of Chiang Mai. I'll post more soon about my adventures in the north!